Autumn festival and easy recipes for sukkah feasting

Israelis building a sukkah at Moshav Yashreish before Sukkot, Sept. 25, 2023. Photo courtesy of Yossi Alon/Flash 90.t

by ETHEL G. HOFMAN

JNs

Sukkot is glorious. It’s akin to a Jewish Thanksgiving holiday where family and friends gather in booths decorated with fall fruits, gourds and often paper chains (add yellow ribbons and Israeli flags this year). There’s the excitement of eating festive meals under a leafy roof that lets the stars and moon shine in during a time of year when the skies are resplendent and the air crisp and clear. Some decide even to sleep in their sukkahs. At the very least, make sure to have at least one meal or snack in a sukkah during the weeklong holiday; most synagogues and Jewish organizations build one and would be happy to have your company.

This year, Sukkot began on the evening of Wednesday, Oct. 16. Besides  being a place to eat and sleep, the sukkah has historical roots. The structures that Jews build in backyards and balconies are a reminder of the Israelites 40-year trek through the desert to reach the Promised Land, living in hastily built, temporary huts during their years of wandering.

Feasting in the sukkah is the keynote during the seven days of the holiday. And there is no better culinary season or weather to do this (many of the summer bugs and allergy-causing weeds are gone). At this time of year, farmer’s markets, fresh fruits like apples and pears, and veggies such as pumpkin and squash, are piled high in markets, offering a huge variety of locally grown items at competitive prices. At Sukkot time, foods served represent the richness of fall produce; dishes are sweetened with honey or fruit to continue the wish expressed during Rosh Hashanah—a good and sweet year, and a peaceful time ahead.

After cooking elaborate, traditional meals for Rosh Hashanah and Yom Kippur (pre- and post-fasting), convenience is now the top priority. For seven days, dishes are carried from the kitchen to the sukkah or potluck meals are brought to share with neighbors. Packaged broths and soups, pre-cut fruits and veggies, and bottled dressings are everyday market items. For the clever cook, they’re also a timesaver. If traveling, soups may be carried in thermos containers made for hot or cold purposes. Prepare items like chicken dishes and casseroles in foil pans, which are easy to transport, serve and discard.

The following recipes use ingredients where much of the grueling labor has been done for you. However, if you have the desire and lots of help, do it the old-fashioned way: peel, core, chop and dice. If time permits, prepare and cook artichokes. They’re a powerhouse of nutrients and antioxidants, rich in fiber and vitamins C and K. But first, check out store shelves, and the freezer and refrigerator aisles in your supermarket. It’s all there to make cooking easier. That extra time can be spent with family and friends, or ushpizin—the traditional “guests” or “visitors” that gather under the open sky. And this year, many will add photos of the estimated 100 hostages still be held by Hamas in Gaza as a reminder that they, too, should share in the joy of Judaism.

Any-Weather Chicken Soup, Israeli-style (Meat)

Serves 4-6

Tips and Tricks

• Use food processor with grater blades to grate zucchini or use a box grater.
• Store-bought kosher chicken broth is fine. To make pareve, use pareve powdered consommé.

Ingredients:

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 ribs celery, sliced thinly

1 medium green zucchini, coarsely grated

1 red bell pepper, seeds removed coarsely chopped

1 cups corn kernels, fresh, frozen or canned

3 medium tomatoes cut up coarsely

2 green onions, trimmed and sliced thinly

4 cups kosher chicken broth

2 teaspoons lemon-pepper seasoning or to taste

salt to taste

Directions:

Heat oil in a large pot over medium heat.

Add the celery, zucchini and bell pepper. Cook, stirring often, for 4 to 5 minutes or until vegetables are tender.

Add the corn, tomatoes, green onions, chicken broth and seasoning. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low. Cover and simmer 10 minutes. Taste for seasoning; adjust to liking.

Serve hot.

Creamy Gazpacho with Toasted Almonds (Dairy)

Serves 4-6

Cook’s Tips:

*To toast almonds, place on a microwave plate. Cook at High for 35 to 50 seconds or until golden brown. Watch constantly.

*Soup and vegetable mixture may be chilled and made ahead of time.

Ingredients:

2 medium cucumbers, peeled and cut into chunks

1¼ cup vegetable broth

1¼ cups sour cream

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 (6.5-ounce) jar of marinated artichokes, drained and quartered

8 cherry tomatoes, quartered

¼ cup snipped parsley

⅓ cup slivered almonds, toasted (if using)

Directions:

Place cucumbers, broth, sour cream, lemon juice and mustard in the food processor. Pulse until the cucumbers are finely chopped. Pour into a bowl and refrigerate for 2 hours or overnight.

In a small bowl, toss the artichokes with the tomatoes and parsley. Set aside.

Ladle the cucumber soup into serving bowls. Spoon the artichoke mixture into the center of each bowl.

Sprinkle toasted almonds on top and serve.

Pear and Parsley Bisque (Pareve)

Serves 4-6

Cook’s Tip’s

• Good vegetable broth is available in markets.
• Substitute any fresh herb, such as dill or cilantro, for the parsley.

Directions:

5 cups vegetable broth

½ teaspoon nutmeg

½ teaspoon cinnamon

1 tablespoon honey

1 tablespoon lemon zest

5 ripe pears, core removed and cut into 1-inch chunks

1 medium potato, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks

salt and white pepper to taste

½ cup snipped parsley, divided

Directions:

In a medium saucepan, combine the broth, nutmeg, cinnamon, honey and lemon zest. Bring to a boil. Lower heat and simmer for 5 minutes.

Add the pears, potato and half the parsley. Cover and cook until pears and potato are tender, about 20 minutes. Cool slightly.

Pour into a blender jar or food processor and purée. Taste for salt and pepper. If too thick, add a little more broth.

Serve warm or chilled sprinkled with remaining parsley.

Za’atar Baked Chicken with Green Tomatoes (Meat)

Serves 4-6

Cook’s Tips:

• Za’atar is a Middle Eastern spice, a blend of toasted sesame seeds, dried thyme, marjoram and sumac.
• Substitute bottled vinaigrette dressing mixed with 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice and ½ teaspoon freshly ground pepper for lemon-pepper salad dressing.

Ingredients:

4 green tomatoes, cut into thick wedges

1 medium red onion, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon za’atar seasoning

1 kosher chicken, 3.5 to 4 pounds, cut into 6 to 8 pieces

½ cup lemon-pepper salad dressing

Directions:

Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Place tomatoes and red onion in a shallow baking dish. Sprinkle with za’atar and toss to mix.

Arrange chicken pieces on top. Pierce each piece 5 to 6 times with the tip of a sharp knife.

Pour the salad dressing over spreading with a spoon to coat evenly. Cover loosely with foil.

Bake in preheated oven for 35 minutes. Remove foil.

Increase heat to 400 degrees. Bake 15 minutes longer or until skin is brown and juices run clear when chicken thigh is pierced with a fork.

Artichoke and Mushroom Casserole (Pareve)

Serves 4-6

Cook’s Tips:

Note: Artichokes are the flower buds of a large thistle prickly family plant. Globe artichokes are available year-round. To prepare, slice off the stem to form a flat base. Snap off the tough outer leaves. Trim about 1-inch from the pointed top. Trim any remaining points with kitchen shears. Rinse under cold running water. Steam in a steamer basket over a large pot of 4 to 5 inches of simmering water. Add more water as needed. Cover and cook for 50 to 60 minutes or until you can pull off an outer leaf easily. The artichoke may be quartered before steaming 40 to 50 minutes. Don’t worry if you don’t have a steamer basket; use a metal colander or mesh strainer. Just make sure that it is heatproof and fits snugly inside the pot.

Or use frozen.

• Make the day before. Refrigerate. Remove from the fridge 1 hour beforehand. Cover with foil. Reheat in a preheated 325-degree oven for 20 to 30 minutes until warm.
• Keep kitchen scissors on hand to snip herbs such as dill.
• 21 Seasoning is available at most markets, including Trader Joe’s. Ingredients:

1 (12-ounce) package of frozen artichoke hearts, defrosted

5-6 white mushrooms, sliced

1 large beefsteak tomato, cut into ½-inch chunks

¼ cup fresh dill, snipped

1½ teaspoons  21 seasoning, a blend of a pinch of onion, black pepper, celery seed, cayenne pepper, parsley, basil, marjoram, bay leaf, oregano, thyme, savory, rosemary, cumin, mustard, coriander, garlic, carrot, orange peel, tomato, lemon juice and lemon oil.

½ teaspoon salt

½ teaspoon garlic powder (optional)

⅓ cup vinaigrette dressing

Directions:

Place all ingredients in a 10-inch microwave-safe pie dish or casserole. Toss to mix.

Cook at high for 7 minutes. Stir and cook again for 3 to 4 minutes or until vegetables are softened.

Serve warm.

Variation: Thaw 1 (10- to 12-ounce) package of frozen spinach. Squeeze to remove all liquid. Place in a pan with 1 teaspoon of all-purpose flour, a pinch of salt and ¼ teaspoon of nutmeg. Cook over high heat until beginning to bubble, stirring constantly. Spoon on top of vegetable casserole and serve.

Prune and Carrot Tzimmes (Pareve)

Serves 4-6

Cook’s Tips:

• Substitute dried apples for prunes.

Ingredients:

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

3 medium onions, thinly sliced

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper

4 large carrots, cut into ¼-inch thick slices

1 cup orange juice

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 tablespoon honey or to taste

½ teaspoon cinnamon

1 cup pitted prunes, cut in half

Directions:

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat.

Add the onions. Cover and cook until onions are softened, 8- 10 minutes.

Add the carrots, orange and lemon juices, honey and cinnamon.

Bring mixture to a boil and let bubble for 3 to 4 minutes. Reduce heat to simmer.

Cook uncovered for 15 minutes or until carrots are tender. Stir in the prunes. Simmer for 5 minutes more. If excess liquid is still left, simmer for a few minutes to evaporate.

Serve warm.

Downton Pumpkin Honey Cake (Pareve)

Serves 15-18

Cook’s Tips:

• Instead of a Bundt pan, you can divide the mixture between 2 loaf pans (8½ x 4¼ x 3), plus 1 mini-pan.
• Use baking soda, notbaking powder.
• May substitute dried cherries or dried cranberries for raisins.

Ingredients:

4 eggs

½ cup water

1 cup vegetable oil

1 cup canned pumpkin (not pumpkin-pie mix)

¾ cup molasses

½ cup honey (warmed)

1 cup dark-brown sugar

3 cups all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking soda

1 tablespoon Chinese 5-spice

1½ cups raisins, divided

Directions:

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

Spray Bundt pan with nonstick baking spray with flour.

Whisk eggs, water and oil until blended. Add the pumpkin, molasses and honey. Mix well.

Stir in the brown sugar and flour, about ½ cup at a time. Add the baking soda and spice with the last ½ cup flour. Stir in 1 cup raisins.

Spoon batter into the prepared Bundt pan. Scatter the remaining raisins on top.

Bake in preheated oven for 50 to 60 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. A mini-loaf pan will bake the contents in about 35 minutes.

Cool for 10 minutes in the pan. Loosen edges by running a round-bladed knife around the sides. Turn onto a wire tray to cool completely. Freezes well.

Ethel G. Hofman is syndicated American Jewish food and travel columnist, author and culinary consultant.